Sewing for dolls
Sewing for dolls
This tutorial is for a very simply woolly which fits all Monster High dolls without cat ears or similar. (Designing one for Clawdeen will be a small challenge! ^^) These woollies are a nice exercise for total beginners - my Pullips got almost a whole dozen of them before I dared try my first amigurumi. They can be easily modifed with colour changes or variations in the last row. If, for instance, in the last row you switch between single crochets, half double crochets and double crochets you get - depending on how random you make these changes - either a wavy rim or one that looks like it's melting, like icing on a cake. You can also make the ears bigger by adding another row, think up other ears or decorate the wolly with a pom pom, buttons or decorative stitches.
I used a size 3 crochet hook and the typical discounter yarn for size 3-4. If your woolly ends up too large use a smaller needle, if it gets too small try half a size larger. Yarn differs so much that for me instructions from the web most often don't work without hook size adaptions either. (That's the advantage about amigurumi, it doesn't matter for those!)
Abbreviations:
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
If you don't know how to make a magic ring you can chain 2 stitches instead and crochet into the 2. stitch from the hook.
Simple woolly
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
1) 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts).
2) 2 sc in each st around (12 sts).
3) (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) *6 (18 sts).
4) (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) *6 (24 sts).
5) (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) *6 (30 sts).
6) (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) *6 (36 sts).
7-10) sc in each st around (36 sts).
Join with a slip stitch, fasten off. (It's advised to test the woolly on the desired doll first. Depending on the hairdo 9 rows might be enough or in the contrary you might have to add an 11th row.)
optional bear ears (make 2):
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
1) 4 sc in magic ring, ch 1, turn.
2) Beginning in 2nd st from hook, 2 sc in each st around (8 sts).
Fasten off, don't cut off the thread but use it to sew the ears to the woolly.
There are three models total. For model 2 (the green one) crochet hdc instead of sc. For my woolly I had to add an 11th row - crocheted with sc in another colour - to have a good length.
For model 3 crochet dc instead of sc up to row 6, then add a 7th row of sc all around. In round 8, sc in next 2 sts and slip stitch in next 2 sts to get an even look, then fasten off. This only worked for me with very fine and elastic thread, else the woolly was too tight. The purple woolly was made in this style. But maybe my hdc and dc are just very tight since I'm used to tight stitches from Amigurumi.
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This is a tutorial for making a simple bag from felt that a Pullip or Monster High doll can wear. I added some scales to the pattern to make it easier for you to print it correctly. Cut out the two parts and transfer them to a thin but sturdy piece of felt. (I noticed that some of my felt was much softer than the other pieces and as a result the bag is much more fragile and the needle left much bigger holes..) Notice that you need two of the smaller parts. In addition to that you will also need some embroidery thread or thick yarn. Embroidery thread has 5-6 strings which is too much so I unravelled it and only kept 2 strings together. Roughly 1.20m is a perfect length for one bag for me but depending on the length and frequency of your stitches you might need a bit more or less. You will also need about 15cm of material to make a cord for the bag. Most often I use micro sude from Rayher for that (3mm width), but you can also use ribbons, a string of beads or whatever you desire. Of course you also need some needles and scissors, plus a press-stud and some yarn, preferably of the invisible sort. |
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Start with a first stitch on the upper left corner of the big part. Leave some lose thread (you will tie a knot with the other end once you're done), then put one of the small parts above it as seen on the picture, making a "sandwich" around the loose end. |
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The decorative blanket stitch I use for this bag is done as follows: The thread is below the felt at the start. Pinch the needle in from above so the thread wraps around the edge of the felt. Make a second stitch through the same hole, then the start looks better. All stitches go from top to bottom now. Before you tighten the thread though bring the needle through the hoop that wraps around the felt. That creates the rim. You should make sure to always bring the needle through the hoop from the same direction (either from the bottom or from the top) as both methods look slightly different. I always make my stitches from top to bottom and bring the needle upwards through the hoop. |
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Sew your way around the small piece of felt while following the rounded end and holding the big piece in place. I place the stitches as evenly and closely as possible for more stability and an overall less frayed look. Once you reach the end of the small part make a second stitch through the same hole for more stability, then keep sewing around the long end of just the big piece. This will become the front of the bag so we want it to have a nice rim. |
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Test fit the position for the other small felt piece, pin it in place with another double stitch through the same hole and then sew it in place like the first one vice versa. Once you're done with that there is only the blunt end of the big piece left to decorate. Make yet another double stitch, then decorate the straight edge until you end up where you started. Make a knot from both ends and you're done with this part. Tip: If your felt is very soft and you're worried that it might fray or rip you can stabilize the two short undecorated edges with separate thread too. I often use invisible thread for that instead, though. |
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Next up is the cord. In this example I use micro suede. Since that stuff is too hard for my needles I wrap invisible thread around it several times and make several very tight knots. Then I use the same thread to sew it inside the bag with several stitches and knot both ends together. (Pro tip: If you want to decorate the side of the bag with beads or anything you can add them directly with these stitches.) Do the same with the other end. Do not sew the cord in too high or there'll be higher danger of ripping. It should sit at least 5mm below the edge. If you use ribbon instead I recommend fixing the ends with some glue so they don't fray and eventually rip out. |
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Finally, add the press-stud, preferably with invisible thread, and you're done! |
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Here are some examples for finished bags to give you some ideas.
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